THE "NEEDLE" SPIRE

THE SOUTH RIDGE, 430m, 6a

Needle Spire is the most remote and inaccessible peak in our country. Even its easiest route requires several rappels to reach and…to climb up two grade 4 pitches, to “descend” from it.

Naturally, we won't bother climbing up the easy way, but will take on the difficult and long classic line of the south ridge.

Overcoming pitch after pitch on the panoramic and exposed climbing, you won't be able to contain your amazement towards the authors of the route - the great Encho Petkov & Hristo Borisov who climbed it in the 1950s, at a time when climbing shoes, nuts and cams didn't exist yet!

The hard vertical cracks on the first pitches will make you feel true respect for these incredibly tough men!

As we progress up the route, the beauty of the rock formations around is will amaze us. The panoramas become more and more captivating, our position - more exposed, and climbing through the crux sections can only be described in one way - "You climb and you sing!" 

Even at the very top, the climbing isn't over! We'll have to rappel and climb another 100m of technical rock to the top of Two-Headed peak, before we can untie from the ropes.

This is a truly wild journey through the world of vertical granite. An absolute must for anyone who wants to call themselves a climber!

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  • 430+ m of technical alpine climbing on one of the most beautiful classic routes in Bulgaria.

  • A rarery climbed route, in a remote setting, with a view of the immense south face of Two-Headed peak, the Rila Monastery, and many, many mountains...

  • Custom tailored climbs in a small group of MAXIMUM two people, also suitable for beginners

  • Certified Alpine Guide

  • Custom climbing dates of your choice!

ITINERARY

  • Departure from Sofia the night before and a 1-hour hike from the Malyovitsa CMS to the Malyovitsa refuge. Overnight stay at the refuge

  • Alpine start at 4:00; Approach: Maliovitsa refuge - Granite water bivvy - The Blue Gully - the beginning of the South Ridge tour. (2:30 - 3:00 h)

  • Изкачване на комплексния алпийски маршрут Южен ръб на връх Иглата – 350м, 9 въжета, трудност от 4a до 5с. Според уменията на участниците продължителността на изкачванeто е между 5:00 и 8:00 часа. Climb up the South Ridge of Needle spire – 330m, 9 pitches, 6a-4a. Do one long rappel from Needle spire and climb the "West Ridge" route (100m, 4+) on Two-Headed peak. Depending on your skills, the duration of the climb is between 5:00 and 8:00 hours.

  • Hike out: Two-Headed peak - The Ring rock formation - Granite water bivvy - CMS Malyovitsa. Transfer to Sofia.

  • Required equipment:

    • climbing helmet, harness, climbing shoes, closely fitting and comfortable approach shoes
    • comfortable clothes with long sleeves - a blouse or shirt and light, comfy trousers
    • Top shell - membrane jacket or windbreaker
    • down and/or fleece jacket (hooded)
    • Sunscreen
    • Sun glasses
    • Headlamp with spare batteries
    • small and light backpack (about 25 liters)
    • food and water for the day
    • hiking poles (optional)

PRICE

  • ROPE TEAM OF TWO: 300 EUR / participant

    • You, one faithful friend, and the Alpine guide
    • High standard of safety, good degree of custom tailoring.
  • VIP personalized climb: 480 EUR

    • JUST YOU and the guide
    • The climbing is custom tailored specifically for you!
    • The highest possible standard of safety, and the greatest value of the experience. Excellent custom tailoring opportunities.
  • THE PRICE INCLUDES:

    • participation in the program
    • certified alpine guide
    • overnight stay at Malyovitsa refuge
    • mountain insurance with extreme sports coverage for the duration of the trip
    • alpine equipment - helmet, harness, ropes, rock protection, etc.
  • THE PRICE DOES NOT INCLUDE: transport expenses, food, personal expenses, climbing shoes

  • FOR MORE INFORMATION (Call, WhatsApp or Viber): +359887990753

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