THE "NEEDLE" SPIRE
THE SOUTH RIDGE, 430m, 6a
Needle Spire is the most remote and inaccessible peak in our country. Even its easiest route requires several rappels to reach and…to climb up two grade 4 pitches, to “descend” from it.
Naturally, we won't bother climbing up the easy way, but will take on the difficult and long classic line of the south ridge.
Overcoming pitch after pitch on the panoramic and exposed climbing, you won't be able to contain your amazement towards the authors of the route - the great Encho Petkov & Hristo Borisov who climbed it in the 1950s, at a time when climbing shoes, nuts and cams didn't exist yet!
The hard vertical cracks on the first pitches will make you feel true respect for these incredibly tough men!
As we progress up the route, the beauty of the rock formations around is will amaze us. The panoramas become more and more captivating, our position - more exposed, and climbing through the crux sections can only be described in one way - "You climb and you sing!"
Even at the very top, the climbing isn't over! We'll have to rappel and climb another 100m of technical rock to the top of Two-Headed peak, before we can untie from the ropes.
This is a truly wild journey through the world of vertical granite. An absolute must for anyone who wants to call themselves a climber!
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